I used the bigger needle but found it hard to get in the nocks and crandes.I think it would have come out clearer with the med size needle because things like triangular latches have kind of gone but I did the sec coat a bite wetter than the first and I used the 20ml bottle attachment not the 1/4oz metal cup that I usely use.
They are a particular track specific to the Gal Batash, late Azcharit and Merkava IID. Fruil do some, part #ATL171 (not the normal merkava tracks as they are different). Legend also does some resin ones but they aren't the easiest things to work with. A lot of israeli tanks can be seen with a different type of track on each side, as per the below pic which has normal merkava tracks n the left side and batash tracks on the right side.
Nice. Great work on the rear bin with all it's railings. These in the picture above sport the amazing paint that can look green or brown or a mixture of both depending on the light you use. My Magach and Merkava IV Lic both wear it. I had to mix it up when I did them. I imagine you can buy it ready mixed now days. The closest tank in the photo seems to have two different tracks, or am I dreaming?
You are not dreaming Tony. As mentioned in the text above the pic, it has normal merkava tracks on the left and batash tracks on the right. Apparently it is not uncommon to see different tracks on each side or even different links on the same track. I suppose it is a case of making do with what they have.
I scored some very fine sand blasting grit from my old job that I plan on using for nonslip when I get round to my Merk IID, IIID (that I have now) and the Magach 6B, 7A and IV LIC when I get them. It is very fine (finer than sand is normally) and the method I plan on using that I've seen that looks effective is to mask off with liquid mask what I don't want it on, spray humbrol enamel clear and sprinkle the sand on before it dries. Have seen it done a few times and looks good.
Your nonslip came up good Henry, the israeli nonslip is a lot bigger and rougher than what the other western tanks have on them, less like sand and more like pebbles or gravel.
I tryed tamiya clear but found it set too quickly so I toke it all off and used a good PVA and found the glue sticking to my marsks but only toke a small amount a way witch was good also a bit of a pain.
I think the reason the few times I saw it they used enamel as it doesn't dry as fast as acrylics and sticks to the bare plastic better too. I think future would work well too, plus it shrinks down heaps so might be easier to apply (could do it by brush as well so more control over where it goes and doesn't).