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TOPIC: Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack

Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 4 months 2 weeks ago #1

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Next project for me, the Airco DH2 WW1 RFC pusher-biplane. A lot of 'string' and a lot of tiny PE, (why do we do this to ourselves??) , and a lot of research to do first so probably looking at the end of this month to really get stuck in.

The box


The sprues



One of three colour schemes


The PE (there's also paint masks)

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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 4 months 2 weeks ago #2

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Nice! All that PE looks like fun ...
Eduard are putting out some really good kitsets nowadays ...
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My preference - WW2 RNZAF & Pacific Theatre, Allied & Axis, ETO, Mediterranean, AFV & figures
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 4 months 2 weeks ago #3

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Looks amazing... that PE!!!
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 4 months 2 weeks ago #4

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Lol, PE struck me as well. All I can say is good luck mate, I'm sure with some patience, you will be fine :)
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 4 months 2 weeks ago #5

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Well this looks cool, not sure about the PE and string :ohmy: but you will cope i'm sure.
Looking forward to watching this come together.
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 4 months 2 weeks ago #6

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This was a pretty good plane if I remember rightly. Guys had rather large balls to fly something like that into battle. The PE looks to be very good actually.
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Why is patience a virtue, why can't hurry the f**k up be a virtue?

Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 4 months 2 weeks ago #7

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A friend built this kit when it was first released, he found that the booms were very flimsy and replaced them with brass rods.
Using mono filament for the rigging also helped to strengthen the booms.
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 4 months 2 weeks ago #8

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Thanks for the advice. I have been looking at what material is best for the rigging, I have been using stretched sprue in the past and although it works well can be very inconsistent. I have some fly fishing monofilament (from days gone by) which should be fine enough - just need to check it sticks to plastic OK, use superglue??. I read also that applying heat to the finished riging tightens all the lines - so sounds like a good thing Interesting that the booms are flimsy - I have found this often when making planes from this era and was usually very pleased to find once the rigging was applied the whole thing became far more rigid - just like the real one!

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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 4 months 2 weeks ago #9

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Yea, CA works very well. It is advisable to drill a hole slightly bigger than the diameter of the mono filament your are using, place a tiny amount of CA with a pin or similar in the hole and insert the filament. once rigged, light a match, blow it out and hold the hot head of the match near (not touching) the filament and the lines will tension up very well.
This takes a little bit of practice, but is not that hard. When (not if) you melt through a line, just pull it out with tweezers and make a new one.
You will be surprised at how much stronger the mono filament will make the structure.
Using easy-line would be a bit faster but not give the support.

Hope that helps!

Chris

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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 4 months 2 weeks ago #10

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I'm looking at using 3D printed line for my WWI builds, I can print them flat or round as thin or as thick as I like plus being plastic regular glue will work well.
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 4 months 1 day ago #11

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Gary wrote: I'm looking at using 3D printed line for my WWI builds, I can print them flat or round as thin or as thick as I like plus being plastic regular glue will work well.


Certainly a benefit to have the line made from plastic, and is far easier if regular cement (and thinned down filler) works. I think it just wouldn't work using stretched sprue for this kit, with the amount of line needed it would be too inconsistent. I'll try the fly fishing monofilament idea first, and if no luck, I know someone with a 3D printer and I'm sure they owe me a favour..

Thanks for the advice!

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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 2 months 2 weeks ago #12

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Finally made a start on this kit, starting with the seat and steering stick. The PE seatbelts come with the kit and I made an attempt to colour them a 'worn leather', ho hum. Other PE parts so far are the small 'brass' circle at the front of the floor on top of a tiny decal. The wood effect on the floor (again quite 'worn') still needs a bit of work but I guess I will have wood effect sorted by the time this build is finished
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 2 months 1 week ago #13

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The weathering is looking good so far
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Why is patience a virtue, why can't hurry the f**k up be a virtue?

Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 2 months 1 week ago #14

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Nice job so far, belts look great.
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 2 months 1 week ago #15

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Things were really basic back then eh?
You've captured that look really well ...
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I enjoy doing research

Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 2 months 1 week ago #16

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Have had to change the interior colour scheme from the instructions. It seems the top of the fuselage is grey painted metal while the framing is wood, opposite to what I painted. Will post photos of the right version once finished. If building this kit you need to do the research before following the instructions
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Last Edit: by arrowtrader.

Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 2 months 1 week ago #17

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Finished the cockpit interior and joined the halves together. Interior walls were painted a 50:50 mix of Hu148 Radome Tan and Hu71 Oak for the linen colur. The painted metal was Hu167 RAF Barley grey. The exterior paint has to be next, "PC10" is one of those colours which has no "correct" version - it was a fabric protectant which started off very dark green and faded to pale brown over time - choose anything along that spectrum and you'll be right :huh:
A few issues with the kit so far, some of the PE is plain ridiculous and some parts which would become important later on simply don't fit where they are supposed to go, but what you end up seeing is not too bad.
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 2 months 1 week ago #18

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Looks a good fit.

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Why is patience a virtue, why can't hurry the f**k up be a virtue?

Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 2 weeks 2 days ago #19

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Added some effects to the fabric covering of the forward fuselage sides. Achieved this by diluting Tamiya putty with lacquer thinners and 'painting;' the mixture roughly onto the panel. Should make t look a bit more realistic than a flat plastic side. Finishd filling and sanding the 'metal' part of the nose, and opened p the holes for the elevator control rod to go through. This is typical of Eduard and these 1/48 WW1 kits - I get the impression that the person who wrote the instructions and designed the kit, probably never actually built one!
Also finished the engine construction - only two parts but much more complicated than it looks. Firstly, with the engine rods half of them broke off the sprue when I removed it, and then after gluing them back on half of them did not line up with the 'spark plug' (?) on the cylinders, so it became a bit of a mission realigning each rod and slowly supergluing the connection at the end. There was some PE for this section, but I am not that insane. Don't worry the filler will get sanded off the broken rods before it's finished.

Next should be my favorite part - formulating the paint mxtures.
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 2 weeks 1 day ago #20

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Paint mix for top sides PC10 variants -

first undercoat with the LIGHTER shade, then top coat with the DARKER shade, when all is dried dry brush over the surface removing some of the top coat to reveal the 'faded' layer on the ribs only underneath
Same with Undersides:
Paint mix for underside CDL variants

and undercoat (lighter shade applied to undersides -
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 1 week 5 days ago #21

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Paint application to undersides, after some more filling sanding of the forward fuselage:


Not quite the effect I was going for, - the difference between my two shades of "CDL" is not enough, but it works all the same.
Masking, using the supplied paint mask, for the "PC10" coat..

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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 1 week 5 days ago #22

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Nice technique, have the Wingnut wings DH2 and will pinch some of these ideas, really looking good so far nice linen tone matching too.
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 1 week 3 days ago #23

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Finished the painting of the topsides of the fuselage and wings, my 'PC10' colour and Hu 167 for the grey. Also applied the PE straps and added detailng (pin brush technique) to the panel lines on the fuel tank.




Next the critical step in any biplane - positioning the centre struts and fixing the top wing - if this is done right then everything else is easy..




Thanks for watching
:)

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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 1 week 2 days ago #24

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Nicely done so far :)
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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 1 week 1 hour ago #25

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So, all down hill from here..
Attached the top wing to the centre struts - use dividers to position the centre struts correctly. Used superglue to get quick drying strong attachments

Masked off all the wing struts to produce the red-white-grey stripe pattern

and set all the wing struts in place.. I attached the strut at the bottom wing and then pushed it almost into place so the wing tension held it until the CA glue had ALMOST dried, then put a drop of CA gue into the top wing locater hole and push into place.

Painted the propeller - not as much wood in this kit as I thought, but the ends of the blades are coated in a brass(?) cladding. Masking was provided with the kit..


OK, next realising how flimsy those tail booms look, decided to apply some rigging and coat the booms with a light coat of CA glue to improve their rigidity - seemed to work!


While waiting for that to take effect, glued the tail pieces


Painted the tail booms and set them in place at the right angle (used dividers again), glued with CA gle and inserted the spacer to get perfect


CA glue applied to wing-tailboom connections, and attached the tail booms


When set attached the tail assembly, and sits really well. Will become more stable once the rigging is installed, but my efforts above seem to have solved the flimsiness issue you often read about n other build logs for this model.

Status so far -



cheers

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Airco (DeHavilland) DH2 1/48 Eduard Profipack 6 days 4 hours ago #26

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So good. You're making it look easy

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Why is patience a virtue, why can't hurry the f**k up be a virtue?
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